Thursday 3 February 2011

A flash of green

lat: 70 34.05S
We have had the most dramatic sunsets; with fire and brimstone raining down, and explosions over the ice. But last night was something special. There were no clouds. The temperature had dropped so much that ice had formed over the entire deck and a calm stillness settled over us. The sun deigned to set in a menagerie of pinks and mauves, and then, just before the sun sank below the Antarctic dome, the sun itself changed colour. the amber faded to yellow, then blue, heading into an emerald, then teal shimmer before the whitened ball disappeared! The whole transformation lasted about 15 seconds, but WOW! The bridge confirmed that they too had seen the green flash. It was incredible.

There are leopard seals in this bay, and we realised why when a group of obviously juvenile emperor penguins appeared, exploring the ice shelf edge looking for a safe jump, instead they found us, and in very uncharacteristic emperor behaviour showed an interest on our loading! Thoroughly exploring the containers and Germans indiscriminately.

The weather turned today and we have been sitting in a snow storm of hours, as the ice forms on the sea surface the reminder that winter is on its way is strong, a natural nudge of the need for speed now. With warning of the bad weather, everyone was flown back to the ship. Every single person. except the cat train people. Without warning, our space was invaded, after a valiant effort to keep the lounge we retreated, shrinking from the overload of suddenly having people everywhere! It's great to see everyone, but it's like having a physical reaction against the arrival of people. A sharp reminder that we will be abandoning the ice again.

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The weather kept its promise of turning bad and we have now been in a snow storm for three days. It is positively exhilarating outside! With wind, and snow and ice, battled down hatchets and ear muffs!

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